The Road to Singapore

May 18, 2005
The Road to Singapore

The movie, the Road to Singapore, was before most of your time–in fact, it was so long ago it was before MY time. However, that is the road we travelled over the weekend, leaving Melaka by train for the four-hour ride to Singapore. Unlike the last time, I arrived by train, and there were no dogs at the station to sniff our suitcases, looking for drugs (possession is a death penalty here); instead, we had a customs inspection, followed by a return to the train which took us to downtown Singapore to our hotel.

A few facts:

Singapore has about 4 million people, about 70% Chinese, the remainder Muslim and Indian mostly. It is incredibly well run–the same party has been in power since independence in 1967, and in fact the hand of Lee Kuan Yew as now minister mentor is all over it (sorry for the spelling, it’s a strange computer). The unemployment rate is 1.2%; the average income is about $24,000, and it is incredibly clean.

It is an important city in history, and we went to part of it yesterday; in 1942, the impregnable fortress at Singapore fell to the Japanese despite having the reputation for being the bastion of Western supremacy in Asia. The Japanese did what we did–they came down the peninsula from the landside, and most of the guns were trained on the sea. Western supremacy never recovered. We explored an old fort as part of our visit, and it had a moving history of Singapore under Japanese domination, (they punished the local Chinese for supporting Chiang Kai-shek by putting them on barges and throwing them in the ocean).

Fortunately, the city’s recent history is more kindly, as the income level indicates. To give you some idea of the excellence in their service businesses, Changi airport is usually one of the top two in the world (#2 this year). It has a swimming pool–need I say more.

I have used a tailor here over the years. It’s been four years. He welcomed me and asked about Carolyn, who had been here with me in 2001.

And I had a beard then!

The Raffles Hotel is here too, an elegant remnant of the old days.

We had a great visit with the Caterpillar Logistics folks this afternoon, thanks to Bob Hinshaw. The man who spoke would be fun to work for–his territory runs from Australia to North China to India. And he’s from Iowa.

We are going out to dinner in a few minutes so better close, but rest assured there’re some Scout souvenirs from here!

Pulau Penang

May 12, 2005
We’ve crossed the border into Malaysia, one of my favorite countries in Asia, and into one of my favorite cities, Penang. When I say it’s all karma, I can use as an example getting to Penang. Eight years ago, my son and I were on a train from Bangkok to Singapore when our fellow travelers told us to stop at Penang. After consulting the Lonely Planet guide book, we broke our journey and spent a full day exploring the city, which has wonderful colonial architecture, great history (almost 200 years of it–the British valued it as a naval base to control the Straits of Malacca, and named it for the Malay word for betel nuts, which used to grow in abundance), and wonderful food. We had such a neat time here, that I brought Mrs. Hoyt here four years ago, and wanted to share the city with my students this year.

We have been busy all day–tour of the city, a visit to the Dell Asia plant (if you have a notebook, it was made here), and some wondrous food. Malaysia is 28 million people, about 60% Muslim, 38% Chinese and 12 % Indian, reflecting (do not check my math) the makeup of the colonial country. Our guide, an Indian, had a grandparent who came to stoke fires in the rubber plantations. What that means is great diversity, and wonderful food. The hotel we are at serves roti for breakfast, and we had tandoor chicken for lunch. This evening we went to a hawker court, which was full of food stands, having satay and the variety of foods that are Chinese, Indian, and Malay. Does not get much better than that.

Alas, at 6 am, we are on our way to Kuala Lumpur, or as it is known out here, KL.

KL

May 15, 2005

I am in a room overlooking the Straits of Malacca, which is in the news. A third of the world’s shipping passes through here, which makes it a potential source of terrorist activity. Across the Straits is Aceh, one of the most turbulent areas of Indonesia. It’s historically true too, which is why the Portuguese, the Dutch, then the British, seized and held the city. The history is still here–the Portuguese gate and church (St. Xavier preached here and was buried here, briefly); the Dutch statehouse and church, and the British church. As was typical of the British colonies, the Chinese came and traded. One of the most charming features of Melaka is the Chinese district, which looks pretty much as it did 100 years ago.

Today was a real treat for us (at least me) because it’s the Buddha’s birthday, and in the oldest Chinese temple in town, we were able to bathe the Buddha and as a consequence, wash away our sins from the past year.

Yesterday we had a “free day”—for which I arranged a bus that took us to a rain forest near KL, which is run by the forest institute of Malaysia. It was almost like scout camp, with a large hill (500 feet up) to get us to a canopy above the forest (we could see the Petronas Twin Towers, which was the highest building in the world until recently), and like Canyon Camp, it was hot and humid (it always is in this part of the world). From the forest, we went to a waterfall and saw what the locals do on a weekend–picnic and swim in the river, and of course we joined in. Last night, we went to a Malaysian/tourist dance show, with a buffet that satisfied almost everyone in our group. Some of the dancing resembles the Chinese dancing I have seen, some the Indonesian, and some the Indian, as befits a country that prides itself on racial harmony among those three peoples.

On our bus rides, we’ve seen a a beautifully green country , which means it rains a lot, whose economy has shifted from palm oil and tin and rubber to more and more manufacturing and services. Almost half the population is in services (there’re a lot of small shops and restaurants), but a quarter is still in agriculture, compared with about 2% in the US.

It says a lot about the growth of this country that they have a national car–the Proton–with a population of only 28 million.

Seoul enjoyment

May 5, 2005
We had absolutely the finest weather I’ve ever experienced in Seoul on Saturday, crisp and clear. Just a wonderful day to sightsee, which is what we did. We went to a folk village, constructed by president/dictator Park in the 1970s, rather along the lines of New Salem, with traditional crafts and music–even a wedding. Afterwards, we toured the best preserved of the five palaces that housed the Yi dynasty, whom the Japanese overthrew in the early 20th century. I have always enjoyed the palace because it looks like the one in Beijing (but Beijing had an emperor, while the Koreans had a king), on a much more manageable scale–the Korean did not have 9,999 rooms. Seoul has a lot of traffic, but I would fit in–most people here also have Hyundais!

We spent about 8 hours going from Seoul to Bangkok, via Singapore–one of the benefits being Singapore Air, usually ranked the best airline in the world, and deservedly so. Even peasant class is first rate, with lots of great food, and individual movies (I do not think I ever need to see another Adam Sandler!).

We got into Bangkok last night, with the heat and humidity to welcome us. I walked around with some of my students and the other faculty member, but are now waiting this morning for our business visits. We are getting to a factory that makes Nike (and Adidas and Rockport and….) then for a briefing at the Embassy. Our tour guide is a Scout leader, so I’ll be talking with him about Asia 06 for troop 19. It would be great to share this continent with you.

I’m a Seoul man

May 4, 2005

I’m a Seoul man

Professor Query got us to visit an insurance company

After 23 hours, we arrived in Seoul–where it’s cold and wet. We visited the Korea Life Insurance company,, where one of our hosts was a transplanted Californian, whose dad made her go back to Korea for college because he thought she was becoming a Valley girl. The building housing KLI is the tallest in Seoul, and we also went to the observatory at the top, but because of the fog, all we could see was the river down below!

We have had some great Korean meals, including bibimbap and the Korean pancake. Unfortunately, we are in a hotel in the “new town” so I will not be able to visit Scout headquarters.

We are going to a folk village tomorrow, then to one of the palaces—and leaving Sunday morning. By then, I hope I’ll know where I’m at–we’re 14 hours different than you are!

Our Burmese Days (with JR)

June 2, 2004
JR and I have returned from the upcountry and are beginning our trip home. We left Inlay Lake for Rangoon, where we leave tomorrow morning for leg 2–to Bangkok, and then Friday am for home.

Here’s some thoughts on Myanmar:

1) We spent the first three days in the historical setting–the golden land of pagodas and kingdoms–Yangon, Mandalay, and Bagan. The

dancing cats

historical relics (Bagan especially) reflect a powerful nation frequently at war with its neighbors. The country is Buddhist (we spent two hours in a Buddhist monastery whose claim to fame is that it has jumping cats remaining out of the heavy rain–we are almost in the monsoons, and the barometer was 26″).

2) We spent the next three days in the Shan States, the largest non-Myanmar ethnic majority, exploring some history, but more the ethnographical aspects. We were on a lake 20 miles long where people grow crops on floating masses, anchored by bamboo.

3) The country is 75% or more agricultural. When you are at the Jensen place think about mechanized agriculture–we saw water buffalo and oxen. One picture in my mind is of an oxcart bringing cabbage to the truck taking it to Mandalay.

4) China is not just our outsource for manufacturing; it is theirs too. The road to China (of the Burma Road fame) is open, and we stopped at a small village to see what was for sale. We saw many of the same products we saw in China; even the silk they use for textiles here comes as yarn from China.

5) They are power strapped. In Mandalay, our guide had electricity only from 2 p.m. to 7 a.m.—and she was lucky because she knew when they’d stop power on her. Our power went off periodically. Phone to the US (when available) is $8 a minute; email is censored and we could not get our titan account. Imagine trying to do business under these conditions.

Well, I do have to pack for the ordeal. Tomorrow is an hour flight, but in and out of two countries. Then Friday we begin the longest day–looking forward to visiting with you on Monday at the PLC meeting. You will recognize me–I will be the one falling asleep

What we did in Hong Kong

May 26, 2004

As I have mentioned, Hong Kong has one of the best settings of any city in the world. It is devoted to business, and shopping. We did our part to help the economy here, even though it is a sticker price shock coming from China to Hong Kong. They tell us the mainlanders who come here (in
increasing numbers) come to shop for luxury goods. They are here.

We have had an exciting few days. Here’re some of the highlights:

1. Last night, we went to the Chinese University of Hong Kong to visit with one of our alumni who heads the Yale–in China program. He got us a speaker who was very interesting—from the US Department of Commerce. Hong Kong is still the dominant player for US business in south China. Mark’s apartment overlooks a harbor in the new territories, and he catered a wonderful Indian dinner.

2) Today was the Buddha’s birthday–something over 2500 years ago, a holiday celebrated by over 300 million people. One of my friends who teaches at Hong Kong City University met several students and me. She took us to a Buddhist temple, where the “local people” go. Not many tourists there! Buddhists tend to pray on specific days for specific things, rather than having “church services” like we do., so being there today was special. We got to “wash” the Buddha.

Because it is a holiday, there was a party on one of the outlying islands, Cheung Cheu, which required us to take a ferry. There were 100,000 people there, including us. The festival honors the Daoist gods, one of the three main religions of China, and features children in costume providing food for the ghosts on the island. In the 90-degree heat and 87% humidity, it was a challenge, but since it happens only one day a year, and that was today, some of us went.

Finally, we went to a non-touristy restaurant with my teacher friend. She ordered for us–probably the best meal of the trip. We each had a lobster, scallops, and roast duck, —I’m almost hungry again. I know I ate differently than you did tonight.

3) We just got back from the Felix, a sightseeing place atop the Peninsula Hotel overlooking the harbor–a fitting way to end the trip.

It is about 1:30 am right now, and I am about packed for my next adventure. The class flies to Chicago at 12:30 tomorrow, and JR and I leave about 2 hours later for Myanmar. That is a new country for me, and I am eager to go there.

I may not have as ready access to the email there–it is one of the poorest countries in the world

Hong Kong

May 25, 2004

One of the passengers on the boat was Leo Pondelik. He was a Professor of Music when I came to Millikin. Even more coincidental is that he had rented the house on William Street just before us—34 years ago.

We are still in “China” but in the special administrative region of Hong Kong—a free market society in the market socialist China. It’s a Sunday night so the streets are teeming with people shopping. As someone pointed out, Hong Kong people go to China for good prices; mainland Chinese people come to Hong Kong for real luxury goods. The North Face items here are real, which is not true of many of the “North Face” items in China.

Whatever Mainland China has, it has no setting with a location as beautiful as Hong Kong–the ocean and the peak are what the Chinese describe when they say “scenery”–combination of the characters for mountains and water. We will tour the city tomorrow and I hope to have time
to visit the Scout Shop.

I understand my postcards have not yet arrived. The delay demonstrates one of the values of the internet–the connection in real time. If someone were on line when I am (and I’m not on long because it’s expensive), I could answer you in real time. Right now it’s nine am Saturday in Bloomington.

Hong Kong

May 24, 2004
It is hot and humid here, as it usually is during the summer. It is also the city China would love to be like. I did get to the Scout shop last night, and you will have new slides when I return.

Hong Kong consists of over 200 islands. Yesterday, some of the students and I took a ferry to one of the outlying islands where we ate at a fresh fish restaurant–lobster, grouper, joined minced quail and roasted chicken. I doubt that 1% of the 16 million tourists ever get off Hong Kong (the main island) or the Kowloon peninsula. Ninety percent come only to shop.

Shanghai

May 25, 2004

I am now in Shanghai, city of 16 million, China’s industrial, financial, and fashion heart. It is another case of not recognizing a place I have been many times before, but not in the last four years. Shanghai has become modern high rises, more recent than Hong Kong (but not the setting!). There are some of the wonderful old buildings that I have got on picture postcards I collect, but then, as I went for a walk this morning, I realized it’s not my century anymore. Nor, I wonder, is it yours—what I have been thinking for some time may be coming to pass: this is the Asian century, led by China. And it’s not just Shanghai–it’s Chongqing, 700 miles west, the sleepy World War ii capital of China.

The countryside, by contrast, is still farming as it has probably for centuries. There is still water buffalo and manpower, but the young people (as they are everywhere) head for the big cities, where they find hard labor jobs that those who have rising standards of living have abandoned. While the government owns the land (so I understand), they have just passed a law that makes the private assets possible. That should make foreign investors more likely to invest.

Almost every hotel where we have been at, and we have been at some wonderful places, has had MBA students from the US visiting. As I said at the beginning, they should be here to see what I have seen. If China can master distribution (which is improving; when I first came there was one ten mile long expressway), watch out.

The business we visited today captured it best when the owner, a Taiwanese, pointed out that China has a communist government, but a capitalist economy.

Enough of the philosophical. We have had a great time touring the historical and cultural sites. Those are quite different (of course) than anything in the West. And the food is great.

JR Glenn, who is one of my students, an Eagle Scout from Lincoln, said, “It’s just like Scout camp.” In the sense that every day is an adventure, and I’ll tell you about some of them when we return), he’s right.