May 26, 2004

As I have mentioned, Hong Kong has one of the best settings of any city in the world. It is devoted to business, and shopping. We did our part to help the economy here, even though it is a sticker price shock coming from China to Hong Kong. They tell us the mainlanders who come here (in
increasing numbers) come to shop for luxury goods. They are here.

We have had an exciting few days. Here’re some of the highlights:

1) Last night, we went to the Chinese University of Hong Kong to visit with one of our alumni who heads the Yale-in-China program. He got us a speaker who was very interesting from the US Department of Commerce. Hong Kong is still the dominant player for US business in south China. Mark’s apartment overlooks a harbor in the New Territories, and he catered a wonderful Indian dinner.

2) Today was the Buddha’s birthday–something over 2500 years ago, a holiday celebrated by over 300 million people. One of my friends who teaches at Hong Kong City University met several students and me. She took us to a Buddhist temple, where the “local people” go. Not many tourists there! Buddhists tend to pray on specific days for specific things, rather than having “church services” like we do, so being there today was special. We got to “wash” the Buddha.

Because it is a holiday, there was a party on one of the outlying islands, Cheung Cheu, which required us to take a ferry. There were 100,000 people there, including us. The festival honors the Daoist gods, one of the three main religions of China, and features children in costume providing food for the ghosts on the island. In the 90-degree heat and 87% humidity, it was a challenge, but since it happens only one day a year, and that was today, some of us went.

Finally, we went to a non-touristy restaurant with my teacher friend. She ordered for us–probably the best meal of the trip. We each had a lobster, scallops, and roast duck; I’m almost hungry again. I know I ate differently than you did tonight.

3) We just got back from the Felix, a sightseeing place atop the Peninsula Hotel overlooking the harbor–a fitting way to end the trip.

It is about 1:30 am right now, and I am about packed for my next adventure. The class flies to Chicago at 12:30 tomorrow, and JR and I leave about 2 hours later for Myanmar. That is a new country for me, and I am eager to go there.

I may not have as ready access to the email there–it is one of the poorest countries in the world

May 25, 2004

One of the passengers on the boat was Leo Pondelik. He was a Professor of Music when I came to Millikin. Even more coincidental is that he had rented the house on William Street just before us—34 years ago.

We are still in “China” but in the special administrative region of Hong Kong—a free market society in the market socialist China. It’s a Sunday night so the streets are teeming with people shopping. As someone pointed out, Hong Kong people go to China for good prices; mainland Chinese people come to Hong Kong for real luxury goods. The North Face items here are real, which is not true of many of the “North Face” items in China.

Whatever Mainland China has, it has no setting with a location as beautiful as Hong Kong–the ocean and the peak are what the Chinese describe when they say “scenery”–combination of the characters for mountains and water. We will tour the city tomorrow and I hope to have time to visit the Scout Shop.

I understand my postcards have not yet arrived. The delay demonstrates one of the values of the internet–the connection in real time. If someone were on line when I am (and I’m not on long because it’s expensive), I could answer you in real time. Right now it’s nine am Saturday in Bloomington.

May 24, 2004
It is hot and humid here, as it usually is during the summer. It is also the city China would love to be like. I did get to the Scout shop last night, and you will have new slides when I return.

Hong Kong consists of over 200 islands. Yesterday, some of the students and I took a ferry to one of the outlying islands where we ate at a fresh fish restaurant–lobster, grouper, joined by minced quail and roasted chicken. I doubt that 1% of the 16 million tourists ever get off Hong Kong (the main island) or the Kowloon peninsula. Ninety percent come only to shop.

May 25, 2004

I am now in Shanghai, city of 16 million, China’s industrial, financial, and fashion heart. It is another case of not recognizing a place I have been many times before, but not in the last four years. Shanghai has become modern high rises, more recent than Hong Kong (but not the setting!). There are some of the wonderful old buildings that I have got on picture postcards I collect, but then, as I went for a walk this morning, I realized it’s not my century anymore. Nor, I wonder, is it yours—what I have been thinking for some time may be coming to pass: this is the Asian century, led by China. And it’s not just Shanghai–it’s Chongqing, 700 miles west, the sleepy World War II capital of China.

The countryside, by contrast, is still farming as it has probably for centuries. There is still water buffalo and manpower, but the young people (as they are everywhere) head for the big cities, where they find hard labor jobs that those who have rising standards of living have abandoned. While the government owns the land (so I understand), they have just passed a law that makes the private assets possible. That should make foreign investors more likely to invest.

Almost every hotel where we have been at, and we have been at some wonderful places, has had MBA students from the US visiting. As I said at the beginning, they should be here to see what I have seen. If China can master distribution (which is improving; when I first came there was one ten mile long expressway), watch out.

The business we visited today captured it best when the owner, a Taiwanese, pointed out that China has a communist government, but a capitalist economy.

Enough of the philosophical. We have had a great time touring the historical and cultural sites. Those are quite different (of course) than anything in the West. And the food is great.

JR Glenn, who is one of my students, an Eagle Scout from Lincoln, said, “It’s just like Scout camp.” In the sense that every day is an adventure, and I’ll tell you about some of them when we return, he’s right.

Thu, May 20, 2004, 7:44 AM

to David

Don’t think you’ve ever been here, but I hardly recognize it myself. It is as modern as HK–if not more so–but not the setting. We are on Nanking Road (or Michigan Avenue), or just off it, and it’s hard to believe China is a developing country, much less a Communist one..

Said a prayer at a Daoist temple for my family. Hope it works.

Obviously, we went to Xian, rode bicycles, and saw the warriors and the pagodas.

Went to a wondrous Buddhist cave/statuary about two hours from here, our only real chance the students will have to see how the other 75% live.  Not like the cities, nor like agriculture in the countryside in the US.  They use every bit of land, and terrace it at that.  And there are people in the fields.  No machinery.  Not like Iowa.

I’m glad I’m here today because in 10 years the valley will be underwater.  Though they’re building new projects here to resettle the 1.1 million displaced people in the 23 b project, I like the older buildings
which will be gone.

May 14, 2004

I’m sitting in a five star hotel in Chongqing thinking about Troop 19–waiting for our trip down the Yangtze to begin. Some highlights so far:

1) Believe it or not, my Chinese is passable. I got separated from the group at the Great Wall and had to hitch a ride back to the car. I have been able to negotiate food, bargains, etc.

2) Bike rides. Again, unbelievably, we went on the streets of Beijing the other day, which was really neat. We got up early (of course) and biked from our hotel to the

Forbidden City (around 4 miles each way), then stopped at a hill overlooking the Forbidden City (where most of the pictures are taken).

Today, we went to the City Wall in Xian, where you can rent bikes. So we did.

3) China has changed a lot since I started coming here 14 years ago. There is

a lot more business. Chongqing has skyscrapers, shops, and shoppers. Lots of building. I remember in 1990 there was little electricity at night. Now there is neon everywhere. Our hotel had an ice skating rink, and I remember Phil Pusateri wowing the locals.  Seems like he’d played hockey in high school.

4) Though I have been to most of the places I am going, the thrill of the Forbidden City, the Great Wall, the Temple of Heaven, the terracotta warriors, remains as it was the first time I saw it. It helps that I am sharing it with students who are seeing it for the first time.

Sort of like some of our scout trips.

In case you are feeling sorry, I am going to do some yoga, swim, and take a sauna before signing off for tonight.

Had the most wonderful day in Beijing. Got up at 5:00 and was biking at
5:30 with some students.  Went to Tiananmen Square (was there yesterday at 5 am for the flag raising) then went to a park that overlooks the Forbidden City.  Always wanted to bike here.  Was glad I was off the
street at 8:30.  We went to the Summer Palace, then came back to the hotel.  After lunch, one of my students and I went to the old shopping
area and spent about an hour sampling tea and wandering around. Then we
went out for dinner to a Xinjiang restaurant, where the winner of a
contest I lost (happily!) got to dance with a belly dancer and a snake.

I eventually settled on using Value Holidays in Wisconsin for my May Term trips because, over time, they knew what I wanted and delivered great trips.  Earlier efforts (e.g., Susie Davis here in Bloomington) were frustrating, because I knew more about the situation than the operators did.  I recall one 4 am screaming match in Hong Kong since we had no flights to get us into mainland China.

Usually, I would outline my desires (e.g., hotel near downtown, tip money included, American breakfasts), such as this:

Summary

Round trip air fare from Chicago.

Prefer no less than three star hotels, with double occupancy, private bath.

Sufficient money provided for baggage handling & tips included.

All Porters, All Guides, Drivers, and all served meals, for servers and entertainers, as expected.  Sufficient money for Visas.

Transfers to and from each hotel/airport/train station or whatever else is planned for the group.

Assistance with all connections.

Sightseeing tours of each city with local guides.

Entrance Fees as required

All departure taxes, including at intermediate cities.

Visa fees

Admission tickets where indicated.

Program fund of $100 per person for speakers, fees, etc., on top of taxes, etc.

$4000 ish or less.

Figure for two leaders for free, with single. Desire prices for 15, and 24.

and the following was one such return from the agent (which proves we did more than covered in this blog):

ILLINOIS WESLEYAN UNIVERSITY

CHINA &  HONG KONG

THREE CHINAS THREE BUSINESS SYSTEMS

MAY TERM  2004

Day 1 – Thursday May  6, 2004

FLY CHICAGO TO BEIJING 

United Airlines flight

Depart Chicago

Arrive Beijing , May 7

Day 2 – Friday May  7, 2004

TRANSFER: BEIJING AIRPORT TO HOTEL

                        You will be transferred from the Beijing Airport to your hotel in a private vehicle.

Accommodation: May 7-May 12

NEW OTANI HOTEL

Within the hotel you will find a complete range of facilities such as a health club and a shopping center, all to enhance the comfort of our guests throughout their stay. The attractive guest rooms enjoy an exceptional view of one of the world’s most historic cities. The hotel restaurant offers authentic Chinese dishes, guaranteed to be a most delicious memory. Visit Beijing and experience the unmistakable touch of New Otani hospitality and service.

Breakfast is included during your stay.

Day 3 – Saturday May 8, 2004 [B, L]

                  FORBIDDEN CITY AND TEMPLE OF HEAVEN

 This morning depart your hotel for magnificent Tiananmen Square, the largest public square in the world, where Mao’s picture hangs over the rostrum at the entrance of the Imperial Forbidden City. Walk in the steps of ancient emperors today as you tour the powerful Forbidden City, hidden from public view for over 500 years. This is where Chinese emperors resided and ruled the country for 700 years until the year of 1911.

After a delicious lunch in a local restaurant you will also witness the masterpiece Temple of Heaven, the embodiment of grace and harmony. This is where Ming and Qing emperors prayed for good harvest and it is the largest temple complex remaining in China today. The pomp and grandeur of imperial China lives on in these historic landmarks so integral to the nation’s soul.

Day 4- Sunday May 9, 2004 [B,L,D]

FULL DAY GREAT WALL AND MING TOMBS

 Snaking 3700 miles along the country’s vulnerable northeastern boundary, the 2000-year-old Great Wall was constructed as a barrier to protect China from invasion. It was built section by section between the fifth century BC and the 16th century AD.  Walk along the Great Wall of China ranks high on the wish lists of many travelers, and your excursion today will confirm that this indeed is one of the world’s greatest travel experiences. Linger at the towers and broad promenades; contemplate on the spectacular scenery, and the lives lost in building this monumental construction that never truly fulfilled its purpose. There is ample time to stroll along its ancient stone promenade and photograph the wall as it winds across impossibly steep mountain areas.

After enjoying a Chinese lunch at a local restaurant you will be driven to the Ming  Tombs along the Sacred Way, which features giant marble figures and animals guarding the tomb area for deceased emperors of the Ming Dynasty  ( 1368-1644 ). On the way back to the city, you will also visit the Beijing Cloisonne Factory. Cloisonne is famous for traditional enamelware known as the “Blue of Jingtai” in China, with a history of over 500 years. It is one of the famous art and craft forms of Beijing. You will witness this elaborate and complicated process.

PEKING DUCK DINNER   Tonight you will be transferred to a prestigious city location where you will enjoy a sumptuous Peking Duck dinner.

Day 5 – Monday May 10, 2004 [B]

BUSINESS VISITS IN BEIJING

Day 6 – Tuesday May 11, 2004 [B]

MORNING SUMMER PALACE TOUR AND AFTERNOON FREE

Day 7 – Wednesday May 12, 2004 [B, L]

HALF-DAY HUTONG TOUR

  Today you will learn about the history of Beijing and about Chinese people’s life and feelings on this tour of the Hutongs and the Shiheyuans.

A hutong is an old city lane unique in Beijing. The Siheyuan is a building complex formed by four houses around a quadrangular courtyard. Siheyuans are arranged in rows and vary in size and design according to the social status of residents, and hutong is long and narrow path between each row, dividing the Siheyuans and at the same time connecting them to each other.

This morning your tour will start from the north entrance to Beihai Park on pedicab to the picturesque Shishahai lake area. You will then visit Gu Lou, the drum Tower, where you will enjoy a bird’s eye view of the old city. Then proceed to the neighborhood in the rear of the Shishahai Lake area and walk down the hutongs to drop in one or two courtyard-style homes. Lastly you will visit the mansion and garden of Prince Gong of Qing Dynasty, prior to returning to your hotel at around lunchtime.

Early Afternoon Transfer

BEIJING HOTEL – AIRPORT

Your guide will meet you in the lobby of your hotel. The guide will then transfer you from your hotel to the Beijing airport by private vehicle.

FLY BEIJING TO XIAN

 Flight times to be advised – flying time is approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes.

Transfer: XIAN AIRPORT TO HOTEL

You will be transferred from the airport your Xian hotel by private vehicle.

Accommodation: May 12-May 14

ANA GRAND CASTLE

The Ana Grand Castle Xian is conveniently located just 40 minutes by car from the Xian International Airport. Facing the South Gate of the Ming Dynasty, the hotel, with its highly distinctive appearance designed after the model of the Big Goose Pagoda, creates a fabulous atmosphere in harmony with the surroundings. Featuring a spacious and bright atrium lounge, a variety of the newest amenities ensure personalized service with scrupulous care. The famous Bell Tower and the Forest Steel Museum are just a 15-minute stroll from the Ana Grand Castle Xian. The hotel locale gives visitors the opportunity to experience and share in the unique Chinese lifestyle of Xian.

Breakfast is included during your stay.

Day 8 – Thursday May 13, 2004 [B, L, D]

TERRA COTTA & PROVINCIAL MUSEUM

Today, your guide will be waiting for you in the lobby of your hotel for a morning departure. Please note that your local guide will inform you of the exact pick uptime upon arrival into each city.

Walk in the steps of ancient traders and travelers on today’s sightseeing of Xian, the head of the great caravan route once used for shipping silk and other prized Chinese goods to the West. Tour the archaeological site which so far has yielded some8000 terra cotta soldiers and horses, each a unique, finely detailed sculpture. Also tour the Provincial Museum, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, and City Gate.  Lunch is included during today’s tour.

TANG DYNASTY WITH DUMPLING BANQUET

 This evening, your guide will be waiting for you in the lobby of your hotel for your departure. Please note that your local guide will inform you of the exact pick uptime upon arrival into each city.

The performance at the Tang Dynasty Theatre Restaurant tonight will introduce you to Changan Music and Dance which originated over a thousand years ago in Changan, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, which is now known as Xian. It is during the time of the Tang Dynasty (618AD to 907AD), when China experienced tremendous achievements in culture, the Arts and technology.

Built in 1988,the Tang Dynasty Theater Restaurant is known as “the first Chinese style nightclub” and can hold up to 1,200 people. The entertainment tonight will be performed by the Tang Dynasty Song and Dance Troupe and will include pieces played on unique musical Chinese instruments and dances displaying dramatic masks and costumes.

Day 9 – Friday May 14, 2004 [B, L, D]

Morning: XIAN SIGHTSEEING

Transfer: XIAN HOTEL TO AIRPORT

Early afternoon, your guide will meet you in the lobby of your hotel. The guide will then transfer you from your hotel to the Xian airport by private vehicle.

FLY XIAN TO CHONGQING

Flight details to be advised – flying time is approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes.

CHONGQING AIRPORT TO HOTEL

You will be meet by a representative at the airport, and transferred to the hotel by private vehicle.

Accommodation: May 14-May 16

MARRIOTT or PLAZA HOTEL, CHONGQING

Day 10 – Saturday May 15, 2004 [B, L, D]

DAZU TOUR

 Leave Chongqing, and travel through the green heart of Sichuan to Dazu, home of 50,000 stone Buddhist sculptures clustered in hillsides and caverns. Enjoy the scenery; view the colossal reclining Buddha and stirring scenes of village life.

Day 11 – Sunday May 16, 2004 [B, L, D] 

CHONGQING SIGHTS 

Your Chongqing city touring will include Chongqing Zoo to see the panda, Grand People’s Hall and E’ling Park.  Stillwell Museum is currently under renovation and will be open after June.  Tour will also include lunch.

Cruise: May 16-May 21 VICTORIA CRUISES – YANGTZE RIVER CRUISE

                        (CHONGQING TO YICHANG) 

VICTORIA CRUISES – DAY 1 

After dinner this evening you will be transferred to Victoria Cruises to board the ship.

Day 12 – Monday May 17, 2004 [B, L, D]

VICTORIA CRUISES – DAY 2 

Today you will have an excursion to Wanxian or Fengdu 

Day 13 – Tuesday May 18, 2004 [B,L,D]

VICTORIA CRUISES – DAY 3 

Begin the passage with Qutang Gorge, the shortest & most dramatic of the three gorges. Pass poetic Wu Gorge before anchoring for an excursion on the Shennong Stream or Daning River.  Enjoy on board activities tonight.

Day 14 –  Wednesday May 19, 2004 [B,L,D]

VICTORIA CRUISES – DAY 4

Sail through the Three Gorge ship locks.  Take a morning tour of the Three Gorges Dam Site.  Arrive Yichang  at noon.

Transfer to Wuhan via coach.       

Accommodation : May 19-May 20

SHANGRI LA  WUHAN

Day 15 –  Thursday May 20, 2004 [B,L]

Morning business visit

FLY WUHAN TO SHANGHAI

Flight details to be advised – flying time is approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes.

TRANSFER: SHANGHAI AIRPORT TO HOTEL (Hotel not yet confirmed) 

You will be transferred from the Shanghai Airport to your hotel.

 

Shanghai: May 20-May 23

 

Day 16 – Friday May 21, 2004 [B]

 

BUSINESS VISITS IN SHANGHAI

 

Day 17 – Saturday May 22, 2004 [B, L]

CITY AND SHANGHAI MUSEUM

Today, your guide will be waiting for you in the lobby of your hotel for a morning departure. Please note that your local guide will inform you of the exact pick up time upon arrival into each city.

Immerse yourself in the culture and sophistication of Shanghai on a full-day tour of the city’s premier attractions. View all manners of Chinese arts, beautifully displayed in the astounding galleries of the Shanghai Museum. Explore the paths and pavilions of Yuyuan Gardens; stroll the waterfront Bund; visit the endearing Children’s Palace.  Lunch is included during today’s full day tour.

Day 18 – Sunday May 23, 2004 [B]

FLY SHANGHAI TO Hong Kong 

Accommodation: May 23-May 27

NEW WORLD RENAISSANCE HOTEL

                   HONG KONG AIRPORT – HOTEL

 New World Renaissance Hotel is a first class business and tourist hotel conveniently located in the heart of Kowloon’s Tsimshatsui business and shopping center. Within a5-minute walk from the Tsimshatsui MTR (subway) station, and an 8-minute walk from the Star Ferry Pier, New World Renaissance Hotel provides easy access to almost every part of Hong Kong. The 543 well-equipped guestrooms and suites as well as four Club Floors offer exclusive services to all guests.

With five restaurants and lounges, New World Renaissance Hotel offers a multitude of dining choices or even the most particular of guests. Guests can also relax by taking a dip in the hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, working out in the well-equipped fitness center, jogging or walking along the Tsimshatsui Promenade on the harbor-front, and shopping in the adjacent shopping centers and New World Department Store.

Day 19 – Monday May 24, 2004 [B]

HALF DAY CITY TOUR

Pick up from hotel to reach Victoria Peak for a breath-taking 360-degree view of the bustling harbor, Hong Kong Island and Kowloon as far as the eye can see.  From Victoria Peak, the tour continues to Aberdeen village to see the many fishing junks and floating restaurants moored there passing by the scenic resort areas of Repulse Bay and Deep Water Bay. The tour will continue with a visit to Stanley Market – a popular open air markets for souvenirs to bring home!

Day 20 –  Tuesday May 25, 2004 [B]

BUSINESS VISITS IN HONG KONG

 Day 21 – Thursday May 26, 2004 [B]

DAY AT LEISURE IN HONG KONG

Day 22 – Friday May 27, 2004 [B]

Transfer: HONG KONG HOTEL – AIRPORT

You will be meet in the lobby of the hotel by a representative, and transferred to the airport by private vehicle.

FLY HONG KONG TO CHICAGO