Category: May 2002 End of the Cold War

Carolyn joined me at the end of the Cold War trip, and we did our own visits. We visited sights in Budapest, then left for Prague and Krakow.  Prague was interesting as a city left alone by the Nazis, who gathered artefacts from Jewish communities (as they were being destroyed) to create “museum.” Krakow, capital of Poland in the 16th century, also had much of its historical buildings intact.  Especially impressive was Wawel Castle, home and burial place of kings and famous Poles.  Kosciusko who fought alongside colonials in the American Revolution (and in insurrections to free Poland) is buried there, too.  The Jewish sites were pretty depressing because in Krakow for example, there were only about 150 left.  Only 10% survived the holocaust.  The cemetery in Prague had many headstones, but the list of the murdered in World War II in one synagogue was a memorial to the dead.

In Budapest, we might have stayed at the Gellert, an art deco hotel from 1918 that incorporated Turkish era baths, which were a feature of the Turkish culture, aided by hot springs in the area.

Reflections 2024

 

While documentation is sparse, there are enough pictures and memories to attempt to recreate this trip. It was the only one with Dr. Walsh, who had a family emergency that caused him to leave the trip in Budapest and return home.  We had an elderly gentleman who was a friend of our tour operator (Valueholidays in Wisconsin) who turned out to be semi useful at best; as I recall, he also had health issues and faded as we did reach Russia.

London was always a highlight, and we reached there in time for a parade celebrating the Queen’s opening of Parliament.  The Brits certainly know ceremony, but it’s always instructive to see machine guns on 18th century uniforms, a reminder of the problems of security in the contemporary world.  One of the site visit highlights was to Harrod’s, world famous department store, where I think I bought place card settings.  Paris was next on our agenda, and I remember the trip to the Louvre.  World class art, as always. At the church of St. Denis were the graves of former French kings.  The overnight train to Berlin was my first stab into going East.  I remember asking the border guards for a passport stamp without success.  Our tour guide was useful in steering us to the Pergamon Museum (the museum island is one of the treats of Berlin), which would, in turn, provide an introduction to the  amazing ruins in Anatolia where I would see Pergamon and its contemporaries in Greek civilization.   We also got to see the church that housed the Hohenzollern mausoleum.  Unter den Linden was the fashion street that East Germany showed off, but the wall proved East Germans were prisoners.  Our guide also arranged a tour of a newspaper, whose owner longed for the return of the Junkers, and the good old days of coddled communism.  On the way to Prague, one of the classmates discovered we’d go through Dresden. Though that city had been bombed to smithereens in World War II, the opera house (one of Wagner’s favorites) had been rebuilt, and parts of the old city remained.  From there, it was an easy ride to Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, with a charming old town.  I had never heard of Bratislava, because it historically was Pressburg, where the Hungarian monarchs were crowned.  We stopped at a building that commemorated the victories Napoleon won at Austerlitz, certified in the Treaty of Pressburg. And of course, Prague. The city Hitler spared as a museum, while he gassed its inhabitants.

Budapest, once two cities, and once the capital of the Kingdom of Hungary.  It has a stunning Parliament building on the Danube, which has bullet holes from the 1956 uprising.  I liked the cigar section of  Parliament building. The Opera House had a special section for Franz Joseph, and of course me. 

The Great Synagogue, built in the 1850s in the revival Moorish style was one of the birthplaces of Zionism.  It’s the largest synagogue in Europe, and–before World War II, housed a major Jewish neighborhood.

 

With Dr.Walsh and our tour guide gone, Russia was Moscow, with the massive subways built with slave labor and the Kremlin, where the rulers lived.  It was my first trip to Russia, and as I stood there on Red Square, where so many May Day parades touted the greatness of

the Russ, I noted the McDonalds.  I thought, “The Cold War is Over, and the West Won.”  As impressive as the military was, the consumer world behind it was hollow.  No wonder the Russian Civ book we read was “Cement.” Fitting.  We took the overnight train to St. Petersburg, and saw the city Peter the Great built to inspire Russians to abandon their non-European features.  Castles and Palaces housed splendor until 1917, when the Communist Revolution toppled on dynasty for another. The Hermitage was really impressive, partly because the Romanovs purchased and the Reds confiscated art.  To think, the country produced so many wonderful musicians and artist.  And, as Leningrad, the city bore the brunt of a Nazi siege for  almost two years.  Ironically, one of the first things (International Communism be damned) rebuilt was the Palace of Peter and the amber room.

Our last night (remember this was May above the 60th parallel, a great time for long white nights) we toured the canals of the city, toasting Moskva! in the easy to get vodka that is probably Russia’s primary drink.

The End of the Cold War and the Rise of Global Business in Europe

With the end of the Cold War (or so it seemed at the time), the opportunity existed to put together a May Term trip for 2002 that spanned the European continent.  This is what we promised.

In his impressive book on the Lexus and the Olive Tree, Thomas Freedman contrasts the conditions surrounding the cold war with those of the current global age, both politically and economically.

Students who select “The End of the Cold War and the Rise of Global Business in Europe” will visit countries and companies to see the results of the globalization on both sides of what was once the Iron Curtain.  The trip will take students to London and Paris (both of whom conducted “Global Business” in their colonial empires), then to Berlin, which was literally at the center of the Cold War.  Prague and Budapest, both centers of European culture that slipped behind the Iron Curtain for nearly half a century, will be visited.  The tour will then go to two major cities in Russia—Moscow and St. Petersburg.

We will be visiting both American and foreign companies in these countries, as well as sampling their historical flavor, using the framework of Freedman’s book.