Pulau Penang

Some like it hot, one of the students reminded me, was a movie set in a sleeper traincar that resembled the one that took us on our 22-hour ride from Bangkok to Penang, our first stop in Malaysia. It might also refer to the weather, which is hot and humid—really hot and humid, almost what I understand you’re about to get at home.

28 hours ago we were visiting the Weekend Market in Bangkok, a sprawling center that houses small shops selling everything from cute dogs to pewter buddhas and everything in between. Professor Sikora and I took advantage of the eateries there to sample squid satay (barbequed squid on a stick) and we took advantage of public transportation to get there; Bangkok has a highly developed sky train system, which allows you to look down on stalled traffic—and feel like a local because you can navigate by yourself. We did take a cab back to the hotel to make sure we got back in time because we were leaving for Malaysia at 1 pm.

The train ride, as I mentioned, was about 22 hours, which included time to navigate a border crossing and a customs/immigration check that led to two stamps in our passports. The air-conditioned ride got us about 8 degrees closer to the equator, and a direct distance of almost 600 miles, although if you look at the map, you’ll see that we made a dog-leg turn that probably makes it closer to 700 miles. When we got here, we came to the Bayside Resort Hotel which is at Batu Fehringi (Foreign beach), a good 15 minutes from historic Georgetown, but in a rather posh part of the island along the ocean. We had enough time for most students to take advantage of the ocean or the pool—or both. Our introduction to Georgetown consisted of a tricycle ride (the bike apparatus is behind a two-wheeled cart) that took us around some of the historic area to our Chinese restaurant. Tomorrow we’ll get the day tour after our visit to the Dell laptop facility before our flight to Kuala Lumpur.

The differences between Thailand and Malaysia are apparent even from the train (which goes through some of the worst parts of towns, just like in the U.S. Thailand is about 95% Buddhist, reflected in the number of Wats (temples); Malaysia is about 60% Malay and Muslim, reflected in the mosques (although the 30% Chinese are concentrated in some of the cities, including Penang and Malacca, which historically were part of the “Straits Settlements”, together with Singapore, rather than one of the Sultanates; the sultanates still exist, and one of the sultans becomes King of Malaysia every five years.

There’s a lot more wealthy apparent in Malaysia; the CIA factbook gives an income of over 14,000 for Malaysia, about 6,000 more than Thailand. In addition, only 13% of the work force is in agriculture, which contributes 9% of GDP, a closer correlation than in Thailand. I remember going on this ride in 1997 with my son David. I was reading Megatrends Asia, which extolled Malaysia as a progressive Muslim country, which was considering a major infrastructure loan of over 400$ B to India. It owes a lot to the strong rule of Mahathir Mohammed, who was prime minister almost as long as Lee Kwan-yu, his equally strong counterpart in Singapore.

Penang was and is one of my favorite cities, with its strong heritage mix of ethnicities and the presence of a lot of colonial architecture; the stately British government buildings surrounding the maidan (a parade field), with a clocktower the grateful citizens built in honor of Queen Victoria’s jubilee; Fort Cornwallis (he became governor of India after Yorktown), reflecting the importance of Penang at the entrance to the Straits of Malacca, currently and historically one of the most important trade routes for East-West commerce; the shop houses with the second floor extending over the street, allowing pedestrians to be sheltered from heat and rain; homes of the rich families still preserved today.

Tomorrow we’re touring the Dell factory, then, after a tour of historic Penang, we will take a plane ride (happily) to Kuala Lumpur, until recently, the capital of Malaysia and still its most important commercial hub.

A royal treat

Before I tell you what it was like to join the 5 million cars on the streets of Bangkok and tell you what it means to be in a Kingdom, let me finish part of what I told you yesterday about agriculture in Thailand. I looked at the CIA factbook this morning, and learned four numbers that will help put it in perspective. First, agriculture contributes about 11% to the GNP of Thailand, but employs 40% of the population, which is to say that 60% of the population contributes 90%. Third, if labor costs were as at the cannery/plantation (around $2,500) but the average income is over $8,700, then a lot of people have a much lower than average income. However (and this is a typical economist trick—on the other hand), unemployment is under 1.5%.

This morning, and most of the day today, we were one bus on the road to three royal residences. The first, the Grand Palace, was built by the first King of modern Siam (the country became Thailand in 1939) when he moved the capital across the river from Thonburi to Bangkok in 1782. The Grand Palace is probably the “face” of Thailand, with its temple complex housing the Emerald Buddha. It symbolically states that the King of Thailand fits squarely into the Hindu-Buddhist tradition of the Ramayana, the great Hindu books about the battle between good and evil. The current king is Rama IX, with all the kings having been named “Rama”. The temple part houses the statues of Rama and other figures from the Ramayana, such as the monkey king, Hanuman, who leads the forces of good. The chedi and stupas (the tops of the temples) and much of the temples, in fact, are covered with glistening gold leaf and colored cut glass that make this one of the more colorful palaces in the world. Exiting from the temple part of the complex, we left the world of the Ramayana (the book has seven volumes, I believe; when I read the abridge version, I was reminded of the bewildering complexity of German folk tales, on which several Wagnerian operas are based!) for the later efforts of Siamese kings to prevent absorption into the European empires by adopting many features of Europe (see The King and I for a thinly fictionalized version of the story of Mongkut’s bringing in a school teacher for his many children). In the newer part of the palace (the only part regularly used today—as a guest house for royal guests), the buildings are a Thai-European confection, with European palace buildings topped by the traditional Thai roofs. The whole palace is guarded, but the changing of the guard is performed by troops with modern rifles, but dress uniforms including a white pith helmet. It won’t confuse you with London, but the similarities with European practice are there. My favorite external part is the elephant stand, where the king can mount-dismount his elephant (the traditional transportation—not to mention the heavy infantry of the warfare in this part of the world, an area that until the Europeans conquered it was marked by Burmese-Siamese wars. Bangkok became the capital because the Burmese generals devastated the former capital, Ayudhya (again named for a place in the Ramayana). Siam’s ability to escape colonization (the Thais will point out that the country was the only one in SE Asia not to fall under European control) partly because it served as a buffer between the French in Indochina and the British in the Malay States and the Straits Settlements, as well as India.

Of the other palaces we visited (the king today lives in yet another one, and I know we will be near still another one when we journey by train tomorrow) one was built by a late 19th century king, and, even before air conditioning, had large windows, high roofed rooms, and other features to capture whatever breeze there might have been. Given the power of the king (he was absolute ruler until a coup in 1932 established a constitutional monarchy), there were undoubtedly a number of servants whose job it was to fan the royal family. Even today, a large staff maintains the grounds impeccably. I told Professor Sikora, my colleague and co-leader, we needed to bring the gardeners home to give us the kind of yard the king enjoyed.

This evening we got to enjoy a view of the Bangkok from the river, past the royal palace with its royal barge landing, to the residence of royal commoners today, the Mandarin Oriental (formerly the Oriental hotel), which is always listed in the top ten hotels in the world. When I was here with Mrs. Hoyt in 2001, we stayed at the Oriental, where I bet we are listed among the famous people who have made it their temporary home. I might lose that bet, but I think you understand why I’m tired. Its 11:30 tonight, and we have a lot to do tomorrow. We leave Bangkok for Malaysia tomorrow, so if I don’t get online until then, may I wish all the moms out there a happy Mother’s May?

From the land of smiles

It was 42 degrees when we left Chicago almost two days ago; it’s over 90 here in Bangkok, and that’s only one of the many contrasts between being at 12 degrees latitude and being at 40 some in Chicago. We’ve had an eventful day—beginning with our arrival at the hotel around 1:15 a.m. We had an early wake up (6:30) because I had arranged a site visit to a pineapple plantation nearly 2 hours from here. The whole day, in fact, was planned as a business day because we will be in Penang, Malaysia on Monday. Through our admissions officer, Paul Schley, I contacted families of students from Bangkok, who scheduled a full day for us.

The trip to the plantation reinforced what I’ve always felt about the city of 10 million—apart from the Palace area, I am totally bewildered. It simply sprawls, and I’m always glad someone else is driving. The ride went through a rich agricultural area—rice paddies, rubber plantations, mangos, tapioca, banana trees, etc. And pineapples. CP, the company we visited, is the largest agribusiness in the world, having surpassed Cargill (which is a 110 billion dollar operation!) by virtue of its operations in China. At our dinner that evening, the daughter of the founder of CP briefed me on the history; she pointed out that the company went to the Chinese government said, “We are overseas Chinese; we want to help rebuild China.” Today, CP has a feedmill in every province, which has catapulted its volume ahead of Cargill.

Imported originally from Brazil, the pineapple has taken root in Thailand. We learned that it has a 36-month growing cycle, with each plant potentially producing a successor (called a sucker). The 4,800-acre plantation we visited uses 300-plus workers for a 6-day week, which nets them around 200 baht a day (about $7) to harvest, plant, water, nuke with nutrients or herbicides or insecticides. We watched a harvest (they spread the crop out so there’s either harvesting or planting almost every day). I was a little surprised by the labor-intensive work involved. We saw a harvester; essentially, it was a conveyer belt, with workers behind it throwing hand-picked pineapples on to it; other workers sorted the good from the bad.

From the plantation, we went downstream in the value chain to the factory, which processes the pineapple for stores around the world. We saw Kroger, Safeway, and Sysco cans. Just as the plantation was possibly the first visit to a farm for some of our students, the cannery might well have been their first to a manufacturing facility. There, about 1,500 employees process the pineapples, only 15% of which come from CP farms—the remainder from other growers. They get about $6 an hour, with free residence in the company dormitories, and we saw the world’s most popular motor vehicle, an F-150 come in to disgorge its cargo. One highlight was eating pineapple from a freshly pulled plant (our guide assured us that different provinces have different-tasting pineapples, but fresh may trump pedigree). I used to make sweet and sour pork with whole pineapples partly because it was the only known use I had for a machete. We had lunch in the factory, in the VIP lunchroom—and you can guess what we had for dessert!!

On the way back in, we stopped at a project, a new apartment building that our Admission person told me we should see. It gave us an idea of the conglomerate nature of CP (it does more than agribusiness). It is 150 apartments for rent close to the main Skytrain line. The architect told us about the award-winning design, which is meant to evoke Spain—with arches and a multicolor façade. The common facilities on the 3rd floor include an outdoor pool that begged for a swim (I resisted). I was not surprised by his answer to my question (prompted by what I had seen in Singapore) about urban planning that there was zoning (but nothing like the 20-year-plan has). You can see it in the hodge-podge architecture around the city, where rich-rich rubs elbows with the slums.

Our students’ family hosted dinner at the Grand Hyatt, a five-star hotel not far from where we are. The dinner was a buffet, with a dessert table any chocoholic could spend a lot of time enjoying; a meat assortment—lambchops, a pork pate, a full range of sea creatures, mango salad—well you can see why I’m in the land of Smiles. And ready for bed.

Day 2 in Malaysia

If yesterday’s visits were about Malaysia as a Muslim country, today’s were about Malaysia’s still-predominantly agricultural economy.  Oil is the No. 1 product, accounting for about 35% of its total revenue, but No. 2 is palm oil, which represents about 10% of the country’s export earnings.  Indonesia and Malaysia are the two major exporters of the product, which, we learned, were used in a variety of foods, as well as soaps.  One visit was to the government-created, industry-sponsored Palm Oil Board, whose function seems to be to research and promote better agriculture on the part of the farmers, and new products and new product awareness for consumers.  It is a major source of cooking oil for McDonald’s Asia and is commonly used for cooking everywhere in Asia.  The industry here employs almost 1 million people, and the plantations cover about 60% of the country.  Surprisingly, the tree came from Africa to Malaysia as a decoration for a botanical garden.   Not until World War I was it commercially developed.  The R&D continues, partly to solve one problem: Harvesting is very labor intensive.  Malaysia is worker-short, and many Indonesians come to work in the plantations.  It seems to me a sign that Malaysia is not Third World; Third World sends workers to do the grunt labor elsewhere.  The planters are worried about the labor shortage (Indonesia banned the travel of Indonesians as maids to Malaysia–that was yesterday’s headline), so the board is investigating ways to grow better, smaller trees which would be easier to harvest, or to mechanize the harvest more.  As it is, the fruit must be refined within 24 hours or it loses its quality, which puts the mills near the plantations.

The tree can grow only a few degrees from the equator, on plantations that are about 60% private, and 40% government owned.  Someone told me that Sime Darby, the biggest one (and one fully integrated with plantations, mills, and refineries) was created by the government from a British company; it ordered a number of the smaller companies to consolidate, which was one of the few direct instances we’ve had here about the government planning and support for business; it’s not Singapore, but it has helped lift this economy to the point where KL is an exceptionally modern city, and Malaysia has some of the best infrastructure (read roads) in Asia.

We went to Cargill’s refinery here to see how the oil is processed for use in other products, including McDonald’s cooking oil.  The plant manager was an American expat whose father had been a Caterpillar expat, so he knew about IWU.  The plant operates at about 110% capacity, so Cargill is building a second facility nearby to ramp up production.  This refinery has moved increasingly up the value chain, producing the more profitable versions of the oil. The 40% value-added products produce 67% of the plant’s profits. What was interesting to me was the packaging, which reflects where the $2 billion in sales come from–Portuguese (Brazil), Spanish (Argentina), Chinese (Asia), and two forms of Cyrillic (Russia and the Ukraine).  The more I learn about Cargill, the more I realize that agriculture may be truly the most international of all businesses.

The gustatorial highlight of the day was lunch at a mall, and the purchase and consumption of a durian pancake.  Durian has the reputation of tasting like heaven (not sure about that) but smelling like hell (true!).  Singapore hotels have signs banning durian.  I saw a “durian pancake house” in Singapore, and wanted to try it, but the line wound around the block. The shop at the mall had one–which consisted of the durian fruit in the center–surrounded by whipped cream and a pancake, together with chocolate sauce.  Not half bad, but I doubt you’ll find it in the United States.

We’re going to a cultural show and dinner tonight, so I’d better get ready.

Good night to me, and salamat pagi (good morning) to you.

Hello from Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country, a fact brought home today at our three stops–two business visits and the newly built capital at Putrajaya.

The first visit was to a University that specializes in Islamic finance, recently empowered to award Ph.D.s in the subject.  The Qu’ran forbids interest, which gives finance a different spin here. Malaysia was one of the first countries to stress Islamic finance, and it seems to me that the topic is part of Malaysia’s efforts to become more than a small tiger. Near as I can figure, Islamic finance means a more cooperative buyer-bank relationship, more akin to what happens in joint venture capital.

The second visit was to the University of Putra Malaysia, the largest university in the country.  We were hosted by the Graduate School of Management, which has nearly 1,000 students.  The university originated as an agricultural school, and its sprawling campus can certainly accommodate many farms.  I think I saw a palm tree plantation on the campus.  The talk dealt with halal food, which is food that conforms to shariah law (the Muslim standard; Islamic banks do have a board which determines whether or not new products meet the shariah codes, with the final say held by the Central Bank’s shariah board).  The standards determine the process for goods not banned by the Qu’ran (alcohol is banned; the joke is that halal beer is served at A&W).  The University conducts research on the topic (halal applies to non-food items as well), but the food industry is one which Malaysia is trying to capture for the Muslim world.  The government has issued a major volume which lists the standards for halal. One thing I briefly glimpsed on our tour was a billboard listing the “prohibited behaviors.”  One was kissing; another handholding. No PDAs here.

The third visit was to Putrajaya, the capital built in the 1990s (I want to say 1996 or so, about the same time as the Petronas towers).  The government moved all its offices about 40 miles from KL, and built apartment complexes to house government employees.  It sold the downtown properties it was evacuating in KL to build the new town, so the guide assured us no government funds were involved in the massive transfer of people and processes.  The first building was an enormous sand colored reddish mosque, built on the shores of a man-made lake, and that pretty much sets the tone of the city.  It is truly monumental, rather on the scale of Chang’an avenue in Beijing.  The difference with Beijing is that the buildings here are Muslim with domes, arches, and latticework.  It is very impressive, indeed, and does seem to mark Malaysia’s coming of age.  Muslim government employees get a 10 % discount, as part of the ruling UMNO (the Muslim party) effort to raise the standards of living of the Malays.  Malays seem to dominate the political sphere, while Chinese dominate business.  When I asked a Chinese professor at the University about Chinese representation at the University, her reply was a cryptic, “It’s very sensitive.”  Malaysia officially does celebrate diversity.

The restaurant we went to had a fish tank with a poster, one Malaysia, all fish, regardless of species, swim together in harmony.  In the back of my mind, though, reflecting my reading on the end of the Ottoman Empire, I wondered whether the goal of Malaysia is to become the new Caliphate, albeit as the political/economic beacon of the Islamic world.

Malaysia: a reflection

January 8, 2011

I still remember the first time I experienced Malaysia.  It was 14 years ago, and my son and I were on the train from Bangkok to Singapore.  We had to go through Malaysia.  I remember I was reading John Naisbitt’s Megatrends Asia; he raved about this Muslim-dominated country of 25 million people, most of whom live in peninsular Malaysia (as opposed to the states on the island of Borneo.  This was a country, he noted, in the throes of an economic revolution that was proposing to build major highways for India.  Having just come from India, I well knew the challenges that that demanded.

I don’t know whether those highways got built, but I realized Malaysia, another one of those countries one hears little about, was quite capable of doing so.  The long-time president at that time, Mahathir Mohammed, was a rival of Singapore’s Lee Kuan Yew for both vision and ability.  Mahathir’s focus on Asia,  especially on the economically challenged Muslim majority, made him an outspoken critic of the United States and “western values”.

What he attempted to do, and with success, was to meet one of the great challenges in the post colonial world—to define a country that pretty much owed its boundaries and existence to its former colonial overlord.  The country has not really forgotten the potential explosiveness of racial division; the 60s were marked by race riots (the Chinese minority—about 30 per cent of the country have more than 30% of the wealth, and are Christian/Buddhists to boot).  Mahathir’s plan favored the Muslims (bumiputra), and the country does have a Muslim-dominated government.  Our guide insists that there is religious freedom, but non-Muslims cannot attempt to convert Muslims, and as I recall, marriage to a Muslim may require a non-Muslim to convert.

Mahathir created at least in the major cities a modern economy; Malaysia has its own car, the Proton, and a sophisticated high-tech sector that includes the Dell factory we’ve visited in the past and which churns out most of your Dell laptops.  I’m looking forward to our visits here later in the week, which will cover Muslim finance and food (one of the articles we read for the trip said that Muslim students had to by kosher food until a halal provider came along).

Today has just been a long trip across the border (we had to change busses because Malaysia charges Singapore busses more—the switch simply meant our company exchanged a Singapore license for a Malaysian license.

Anyway, the trip North was as I remembered the trip with David in   1997—on first rate highways (the North-South expressway), through a verdant landscape (that’s a nice way of saying it rains a lot) of palm oil plantations (we’re visiting them too) that stretch as far as the eye can see (and have largely replaced the rubber and tin that were the source of British colonial wealth).

We just stopped at Melaka for a baba-nonya lunch, named for the mixed families of Chinese and Malay.  I was glad we came here because Melaka is one of my favorite cities.  It was the seat of a sultanate that was one of the great powers in the area in the 14th and 15th centuries.  The Portuguese under the duke of Albuquerque, captured it in 1511, and there are still remnants of the old Luso (Portuguese) fort;  About a 120 years later, the Dutch sailed in, and the Dutch Stadhuys (the governor’s palace) and the Dutch church remain. When I was here two years ago, I went into the museum, and learned a  lot more about the Dutch East India company and the Dutch occupation here than I saw anywhere in Amsterdam!  After the Napoleonic Wars, the British traded Melaka for what became Batavia (now Jakarta), the capital of the Dutch East Indies.  And then in 1957, I think it was, after the end of a communist insurgency (unlike the one in Viet Nam), Malaysian officials declared the independence of Malaysia from Great Britain in Melaka.

I’ve enjoyed my visits there more than students, alas, so on this year’s trip, I took Melaka out in favor of a trip from Saigon to Hanoi—so readers of my blog won’t have to hear this little lesson about Melaka again.

Leaving Singapore today

What can you do on a free day in Singapore, provided you’ve been here before and done the basics?  Here’s what I did.

The free day started Thursday night, with about half our group signing up for the “night safari.”  While I recall some of my students had gone to it, I had been skeptical.  To paraphrase Reagan’s secretary of the interior, “If you’ve seen one animal, you’ve seen them all.”  I wouldn’t go to a natural history museum overseas, for example, since we have a great one in Chicago.

As one of the other faculty said, though, it was 120 times better than I thought it would be.  We got on a tram in the park and rode around looking at wild animals in their environment–elephants, water buffalo, giraffes, etc.  Since many are active at night, they sleep all day in the zoo.  Plus, the food was out, so they were up and scarfing.  We got out at one stop and walked through the jungle, viewing (happily there was some barrier) lions (Singapore’s namesake) and leopards.  As is typical in Singapore, it was very well done.

Yesterday for me began with an early morning swim.  While I wanted to do some pilates/yoga, it’s hard to resist swimming outside in January.  Try that at home!

One of the museums I hadn’t been to was the Asian Civilizations museum.  What sold me on it were the building itself (a former government building in the area of the former British government when Singapore was capital of the Straits Settlements [together with Malacca and Penang]), and the blurb in the Lonely Planet that the museum housed an outstanding Muslim exhibit.  Since we’re leaving later this a.m. for Malaysia, a Muslim country, I thought I’d better “be prepared.”  What I was unprepared for were the excellent explanations, so good that I bought the collection catalogue, something I’m loathe to do, because they’re heavy!

Next stop was Chinatown, for lunch (I think I need to take one of the food courts home!), including dumplings and red bean pancakes, and for wandering aimlessly.  It’s a neat old colonial area with pastel buildings and overhangs to keep out the rain/sun, and a wonderful assortment of Chinese New Year trinkets.  I looked for a calendar, and they must be almost as obsolete as letters, but I did find one in a department store.

The evening?  I learned the Singapore Symphony was playing at the Esplanade, a new venue on the harbor that looks like a durian fruit (the one that smells like hell, but tastes like heaven–fortunately, the Esplanade smelled pretty good) that’s relatively new and reputedly had great characteristics.  The program was two Tchaikovsky pieces I had never heard of (does anyone not in a music appreciation class know that he wrote 3 piano concerti?  We heard the second).  The second piece was the Manfred Symphony–toward the end the organ entered.  Aside from Saint Saen’s famous organ symphony, I’d not known of any similar combination before.

All that would have been needed to top off the evening was a visit to the Long Bar at the Raffles hotel for a Singapore Sling, but as one of my Scouts used to say,  “I’ve already done that.”  Two days ago.

Got to pack for the trip to Kuala Lumpur via Malacca.  I understand that we will change buses at the border.

Talk to you soon.

Malaysia: an Introduction

January 8, 2011

 

Malaysia

 

I still remember the first time I experienced Malaysia.  It was 14 years ago, and my son and I were on the train from Bangkok to Singapore.  We had to go through Malaysia.  I remember I was reading John Naisbitt’s Megatrends Asia; he raved about this Muslim-dominated country of 25 million people, most of whom live in peninsular Malaysia (as opposed to the states on the island of Borneo.  This was a country, he noted, in the throes of an economic revolution that was proposing to build major highways for India.  Having just come from India, I well knew the challenges that that demanded.

 

I don’t know whether those highways got built, but I realized Malaysia, another one of those countries one hears little about, was quite capable of doing so.  The long-time president at that time, Mahathir Mohammed, was a rival of Singapore’s Lee Kuan Yew for both vision and ability.  Mahathir’s focus on Asia,  especially on the economically challenged Muslim majority, made him an outspoken critic of the United States and “western values”.

 

What he attempted to do, and with success, was to meet one of the great challenges in the post colonial world—to define a country that pretty much owed its boundaries and existence to its former colonial overlord.  The country has not really forgotten the potential explosiveness of racial division; the 60s were marked by race riots (the Chinese minority—about 30 per cent of the country have more than 30% of the wealth, and are Christian/Buddhists to boot).  Mahathir’s plan favored the Muslims (bumiputra), and the country does have a Muslim-dominated government.  Our guide insists that there is religious freedom, but non-Muslims cannot attempt to convert Muslims, and as I recall, marriage to a Muslim may require a non-Muslim to convert.

 

Mahathir created at least in the major cities a modern economy;l Malaysia has its own car, the Proton, and a sophisticated high-tech sector thatincludes the Dell factory we’ve visited in the past and which churs out most of your Dell laptops.  I’m looking forward to our visits here later in the week, which will cover Muslim finance and food (one of the articles we read for the trip said that Muslim students had to by kosher food until a halal provider came along).

 

Today has just been a long trip across the border (we had to change busses because Malaysia charges Singapore busses more—the switch simply meant our company exchanged a Singapore license for a Malysian license.

 

Anyway, the trip North was as I remembered the trip with David in   1997—on first rate highways (the North-South expressway), through a verdant landscape (that’s a nice way of saying it rains a lot) of palm oil plantations (we’re visiting them too) that stretch as far as the eye can see (and have largely replaced the rubber and tin that were the source of British colonial wealth).

 

We just stopped at Melaka for a baba-nonya lunch, named for the mixed families of Chinese and Malay.  I was glad we came here because Melaka is one of my favorite cities.  It was the seat of a sultanate that was one of the great powers in the area in the 14th and 15th centuries.  The Portuguese under the duke of Albuquerque, captured it in 1511, and there are still remnants of the old Luso (Portuguese) fort;  About a 120 years later, the Dutch sailed in, and the Dutch Stadhuys (the governor’s palace) and the Dutch church remain. When I was here two years ago, I went into the museum, and learned a  lot more about the Dutch East India company and the Dutch occupation here than I saw anywhere in Amsterdam!  After the Napoleonic Wars, the British traded Melaka for what became Batavia (now Jakarta), the capital of the Dutch East Indies.  And then in 1957, I think it was, after the end of a communist insurgency (unlike the one in Viet Nam), Malaysian officials declared the independence of Malaysia from Great Britain in Melaka.

 

I’ve enjoyed my visits there more than students, alas, so on this year’s trip, I took Melaka out in favor of a trip from Saigon to Hanoi—so readers of my blog won’t have to hear this little lesson about Melaka again.

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Singapore, Inc.

One of the questions we’ve been dealing with is whether Singapore Inc. is a government running a business, or a business running a government.  The two notions are certainly connected.  The government is a partial owner of some of the most successful businesses, including Singapore airlines (if you ever get a chance to fly Singapore Air, you’ll certainly rue the day when you can’t).

It certainly directs the social polity in some ways like a business.  The government has decided to limit the number of automobiles, as I think I mentioned yesterday; it auctions the right to purchase automobiles to ensure a growth of no more than a little over 1% a year (Beijing by contrast adds 1,000 cars a day to its already strained infrastructure).  The price for the right this month was just under $70,000 Singapore, or about $55,000–and that’s for the right to purchase a car (with tariffs, etc., that can at least double the price of an automobile; plus gas is at least $7 a gallon).  Urban planning is long-term and coherent.  We learned the government has numbered each tree in an effort to maintain, if not add, greenspace.

Perhaps the most pronounced government-business interchange can be attested to by the companies we visited today, spanning two really different models–agriculture (Cargill) and Medtronic (high tech pharmaceuticals).

Cargill is an interesting business, with over $110 billion in sales.  Privately held, its corporate headquarters is in Minneapolis, but its operations are around the world.  While 50% of its revenues are still in the United States, the company sees Asia Pacific as its major growth area, doubling sales every 5-7 years,  and has made its hub in Singapore.  As the finance officer explained to us, Singapore is central to Asia, no more than 7-8 air miles from anywhere, where a headquarters in Hong Kong or China might be problematic in dealing with other regions of Asia.  The Asian countries, he explained, were not self sufficient in food, and therefore needed the products and expertise that Cargill brings.  For example, the company is building a $290 million factory to process chicken in Shanghai; I hope to be able to visit the plant in 2012 because the manager is a former student of mine at IWU, Omar Sadek.  I met Omar about 14 years ago in Shanghai, where, a few years out of his MBA program at Baylor, he’d been given $29 million to start a chicken feed processing plant in Shanghai.

I am fascinated with agricultural businesses, partly because, as a city boy, I don’t understand them; and partly because they are really global in nature.  The US has a surplus, and without export markets, American farmers would be in trouble, and the world might go hungry.  He also noted that sometimes farm policies, and especially protection of inefficient farming, are counterproductive.  One of the faculty, from Mississippi, pointed out that catfish and shrimp in that state must have the origin of the product on the label, to sway consumers to buy “American” rather than Thailand’s products.

I know from my visit to Cargill in Vietnam two years ago that the company takes seriously its status as a good global citizen; there, we visited one of the 40 schools Cargill has built in areas where the government was too poor to build schools on its own.

The visit to Medtronic was even more pointed to the benefits of being in Singapore.  Medtronic, one of the best companies to work for in America on the Fortune Magazine list, is another Minneapolis-based firm that moved its non-U.S. headquarters to Singapore about two years ago.  The company fits the profile that Singapore Inc. desires–it’s in pharmaceuticals (makes pacemakers and stents among other goods); Singapore has given up competing with China/India/Vietnam for low-cost manufacturing.  The plant manager took us through the history of the plant, which turned out its first pacemaker this month.  It was instructive that his assistants numbered engineers who had come from the semi-conductor industry; that was yesterday’s industry, he said, and the Singapore government has actively recruited the “right kind” of businesses to Singapore in the same way it recruits the right universities–even recruiting competitors. There are three Singapore Inc. salespeople in the United States.  He noted that while all countries gave incentives, one factor which distinguished Singapore was implementation; he had one contact in the government as an “account manager” who could resolve any problems.

I think what I’ve learned in our business visits is that if more businesses were run like Singapore Inc., they’d be better businesses–and that if more governments were run like Singapore’s, they’d be better governments.

Goodnight on that thought!