My Austrian bike trip

Reminiscences from 2024

 

Melk begged for a visit to the Benedictine Abbey atop a hill.  The first abbey founded in the 11th century, but this Baroque version dates mostly from the early 18th century.  The library houses an extensive collection of manuscripts.  Thirty monks “pray, work, and read” in the abbey, following the lead of St. Benedict.

We had the opportunity at Melk to bicycle to Krems, about 25 miles on the Danube (downstream=downhill, I should note), and that was an option I could not refuse. While the boat continued downriver, I pedalled through vineyards and small towns. The trail was mostly paved, flat, with some stops geared to serving bikers (wine? beer?).  While we went through in about 3 hours, Richard I–the Lionhearted–spent four months there, being held for ransom on his return from the third crusade.

Roman ruins

Vienna.  Once capital of an empire, now capital of a much smaller country.  Still, it had some of the grandeur buildings of empire: Schoenbrunn was one example. The site of (naturally) Roman ruins, it became a hunting lodge gifted to Maria Theresa in the 18th century, initiated its growth as the palace of the dynasty.  It remained so until World War I, and has been a museum (mostly) since then.  Another landmark of the city is St. Stephan’s Cathedral, also located on Roman ruins, that dominates the central business district.  Romanesque and Gothic reflect its origins during the 11th century and subsequent additions.  Bear in mind Vienna has an important place in European history for turning back Ottoman armies in 1529 and 1683 (thanks in part to a Polish-Lithuanian Army that arrived in time to lift the siege).  And it’s vibrant musical traditions continue with concerts in many of the palaces and the State Opera House.  (Carolyn and I saw Tannhauser there on an earlier trip for less than the cost of parking in Chicago).

The boat tour took us somewhere I’d never been–the Belvedere Palace of Eugene of Savoy.  Born in Paris, Savoy was denied a position in the French army, joined the Austro-Hungarian and became a general by 25.  Commanding armies at the 1683 siege of Vienna, he fought through the mid 18th century, one of the few successful Austrian generals (Austrian diplomacy was furthered mostly by marriage of eligible daughters to the royals of Europe).

 

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