{"id":1543,"date":"2016-05-26T09:20:10","date_gmt":"2016-05-26T14:20:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/?p=1543"},"modified":"2025-03-01T09:49:18","modified_gmt":"2025-03-01T15:49:18","slug":"solomon-and-sheba-aksum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/2016\/05\/26\/solomon-and-sheba-aksum\/","title":{"rendered":"Solomon and Sheba: Aksum"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_1545\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1545\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01693.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1545\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01693-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"The view from my hotel overlooks the royal stele park\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01693-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01693.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1545\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view from my hotel overlooks the royal stele park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>My morning began with an early rise to send the blog out.\u00a0 About two minutes later, I got a frantic email from my travel agent, who had panicked when she read the title: \u201cI went through hell yesterday.\u201d\u00a0 She assumed that something had gone wrong with the trip, and I had to assure her that while it was her \u201cfault\u201d I had chosen to come to Ethiopia (she had given me a brochure from the company last year, and when I saw the \u201chistorical tour,\u201d I knew I had to take it if I were to come back to Africa), I was really having a wonderful time.<\/p>\n<p>That wonderful time continued as I took an hour plane ride one hour north to the town of Aksum, another world heritage site because it was the location of one of the most powerful dynasties in the Greco-Roman world.\u00a0Aksum was the capital of a kingdom that ruled for nearly 700 years, (early B.C. through the 700s); it was where King Ezana took in a shipwrecked missionary who converted him to Christianity, and where a century later, nine Saints from Syria made Ethiopia part of the \u201cOriental\u201d (that\u2019s the word they use) Orthodox church.\u00a0 Forty five percent of Ethiopians call themselves Christians today. It was interesting to see coins at the (modest) archeological museum, because the kings issued coinage with their pictures on one side (there were 53 rulers), and on the other, the moon and sun, symbols of pagan gods, until a cross decorated the other side when the rulers adopted Christianity.<\/p>\n<p>The kingdom had one thing Ethiopia lacks today\u2014access to the rest of the world through the horn of Africa.\u00a0 At one time, Aksum stretched across the Red Sea to Yemen (whose suppression led King Ezana to have chiseled his accomplishments in the Ethiopian \u201cRosetta stone\u201d\u2014Greek, Geez, and Sabean \u2013enabling scholars to read ancient documents), with a major port in what is now Eritrea to connect the country with the Mediterranean and Asiatic worlds. One of the traded products was frankincense, and the Ethiopians believe King Bazen was one of the 3 wise men who traveled to find the Christ child. Today, the country is landlocked, and my guide told me\u00a0 that egress (look that one up) is through Djibouti, which exercises its power to extract tolls much the same way the robber barons did in Germany.\u00a0 Eritrea (and I learned this today) was part of Ethiopia for a while, but when the people threw out the communists, Eritrea sought independence.\u00a0 I\u2019m only 30 miles or so from the Eritrean border, and while I might be able to cross it, Ethiopians cannot for political (and possibly religious) reasons.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1544\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1544\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/stele.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1544\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/stele-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"Amid the steles in Aksum\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/stele-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/stele-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/stele-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/stele-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/stele-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/stele.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1544\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amid the steles in Aksum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The city is known for its magnificent obelisks, weighing over 100 tons, and up to 125 feet high.\u00a0 The park in front of my hotel has most of the royal ones, which of course are the highest.\u00a0 One is called the \u201cRome\u201d Stele\u2014because Mussolini took it down and shipped it to Italy, where it remained in front of the foreign <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01658.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6978 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01658.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" \/><\/a>office until the last ten years, when a treaty brought it back to its original site.\u00a0 The obelisks lasted until Christianity considered it pagan\u2014alas\u2014but the stonecutting the Aksumites practiced was perfected in the churches at Lalibela that I saw yesterday.\u00a0 There are other steles scattered elsewhere in town, but the discovery has been sketchy. Most of the ones uncovered, beginning with a German expedition in 1906, had been covered with dirt over the years, and there is speculation that quite a bit of the ancient civilization remains to be discovered.\u00a0 I\u2019m tempted to take a shovel tonight\u2026..I\u2019ll resist. Until about 700 AD, it was a dominant power.\u00a0 The rise of Islam was one of the factors that caused its deterioration and the beginning of the \u201cdark ages\u201d in Ethiopian history. There\u2019s also a story that a Jewish Queen seized power and persecuted Christians, and the kingdom never recovered.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1546\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1546\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01686.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1546\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01686-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"The supposed Palace of the Queen of Sheba is a pile of stones\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01686-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01686.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1546\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The supposed Palace of the Queen of Sheba is a pile of stones<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The other featured item is the Dongur, the palace of stones, locally known as the palace of the Queen of Sheba.\u00a0 She was reputedly from the area, and though the palace dates from about a thousand years after Sheba\u2019s reign, her importance in Ethiopian (and Judeo-Christian) history creates a more interesting tale.\u00a0 After all, who can resist a story of temptation (she was reputedly one <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01688.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-6977 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2016\/05\/DSC01688.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"215\" height=\"143\" \/><\/a>of the most beautiful woman of her era), wisdom (Solomon is involved), seduction, and birth of Menelik, their son.\u00a0 There are markings that could be a throne room, and of course I had to take a picture there!<\/p>\n<p>Forts, palaces, churches and monasteries!\u00a0 Who needs to go to Europe?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>My morning began with an early rise to send the blog out.\u00a0 About two minutes later, I got a frantic email from my travel agent, who had panicked when she read the title: \u201cI went through hell yesterday.\u201d\u00a0 She assumed that something had gone wrong with the trip, and I had to assure her that &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/2016\/05\/26\/solomon-and-sheba-aksum\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Solomon and Sheba: Aksum&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":36,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1543","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-africa-2016"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1543","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/36"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1543"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1543\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8425,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1543\/revisions\/8425"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1543"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1543"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1543"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}