{"id":1023,"date":"2012-05-24T11:37:33","date_gmt":"2012-05-24T16:37:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/?p=1023"},"modified":"2025-05-30T12:51:52","modified_gmt":"2025-05-30T17:51:52","slug":"from-ming-to-qing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/2012\/05\/24\/from-ming-to-qing\/","title":{"rendered":"From Ming to Qing"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>We were in Chengde, 130 miles or so north of Beijing.\u00a0\u00a0It\u2019s about 15 degrees cooler, 1500 feet higher, and has about 23 million fewer inhabitants.\u00a0\u00a0We\u2019ve gone back to China about 10 years ago, maybe more, but it does boast a McDonalds and a KFC franchise. It is pleasant to visit a smaller city, if only for the slower pace and the smaller crowds!<\/p>\n<p>Having spent yesterday in the Yongle mode of the 15<sup>th<\/sup> century, we\u2019ve gone ahead in some ways into Qing period, from 1644 till 1911.\u00a0\u00a0The last stop we had in Beijing belonged to that period\u2014the famous Summer Palace built by the infamous Empress Dowager, Cixi, who was the mastermind behind<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-9110 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/sumpal-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/sumpal-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/sumpal.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>China from 1861 until her death in 1908. She kept her\u00a0\u00a0position mostly through guile, with a dash of poison\u2014several emperors for whom she served as regent died mysteriously.<\/p>\n<p>The 1881 Summer Palace, one of the must sees in Beijing is her <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-9111 alignright\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/sumpal2-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/sumpal2-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/sumpal2.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/>legacy.\u00a0\u00a0She constructed it northwest of Beijing (which has grown to absorb it) to replace the Yuan Ming Yuan, a summer palace reputedly one of the wonders of the world, which the allied armies, who torched Beijing in 1860, left in ruins.\u00a0\u00a0Those ruins today rest nearby, and if I have time on our return to Beijing, I hope to get out there.\u00a0\u00a0They are hauntingly part of the \u201croad to rejuvenation,\u201d the exhibit I saw this morning at the National Museum of China, a stupendous building that is so big it seems relatively empty of artefacts, although I suspect there were thousands.\u00a0\u00a0A separate exhibit that is difficult to find deals with the road to rejuvenation, the route the Communist Party traveled in undoing <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01746-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6198 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01746-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" \/><\/a>the century of humiliation.\u00a0\u00a0Some of the pictures in that exhibit (the captions were mostly in Chinese, but it\u2019s the Chinese vocabulary I learned in the early 1970s of revolution and imperialism; my favorite was a pamphlet by renown missionary Young J. Allen extolling British imperialism in India) showed foreign troops ransacking that palace and sitting on the imperial throne.\u00a0\u00a0And they got a medal for it!<\/p>\n<p>The new summer palace demonstrated that the Qings could spend money on themselves, building halls, lakes, islands, Buddhist temples, and what the Guinness Book of Records says is the largest painted corridor in the world, with hand-painted illustrations from Chinese literature on the arches that\u00a0 support this covered walkway.\u00a0\u00a0The courtyard in front of the Empress Dowager\u2019s bedroom contains the phoenix (symbol of the Empress) in the place of honor, exchanging places with the dragon (symbol of the Emperor), more accurately reflecting power in Ci xi\u2019s empire than the titles.\u00a0\u00a0It also contains the largest single rock in China used for display.<\/p>\n<p>The route to Chengde, a superhighway with relatively little traffic, and a view and access to still another reconstructed section of the Great Wall, one where you can do a five-mile hike, demonstrates epigrammatically the difference between the infrastructure in China and India; we arrived quickly, and not having felt we\u2019d spent the ride in a washing machine.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01855.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6194 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01855.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"264\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01872-rotated.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6192 alignright\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01872-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"301\" \/><\/a>Chengde\u2019s reputation and attraction as a tourist site (the province is striving to make it an international tourist city) rests on the legacy of two Qing emperors\u2014Kangxi and Qianlong.\u00a0\u00a0Imagine if US history had been dominated for 120 years by two presidents, and you get an idea of what those two men meant to China from the late 1600s until almost the 18<sup>th<\/sup>\u00a0century.\u00a0\u00a0Kangxi ruled for 61 years as emperor, and according to a show (more about that) we saw tonight, helped transform the Manchus from north of the Great Wall barbarians into\u2014what else\u2014civilized Chinese, scholars respectful of Chinese language, history, traditions, and the religions (Buddhism, Confucianism, and Taoism).\u00a0\u00a0Both had an understandable orientation to the north, being related to the Tibetans and Mongolians, and being wary of the other barbarians north of the wall.<\/p>\n<p>Partly to keep those barbarians in check, and partly because the temperature in Chengde is more temperate, and partly because the north afforded the grasslands that warriors on horseback needed to hone their skills, Kangxi established a mountain summer villa here, a predecessor to the summer palace we saw in Beijing, and five times as large as the <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01930.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6189 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01930.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01976.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6188 alignright\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01976.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" \/><\/a>Forbidden City.\u00a0\u00a0It contains three artificial lakes,\u00a0\u00a0bedrooms and meeting rooms (the ruling family moved here for six months a year) and conducted the affairs of state here; probably the most famous encounter was with the English emissary, Lord McCartney, who sought to open relations with China in 1793. Qianlong essentially told the Englishman that China had everything it needed, thank you; and McCartney refused to bow to the Emperor and perform the rituals that the Asian states had done with China.\u00a0\u00a0China\u2019s relations with the rest of Asia had been as a superior\u00a0\u00a0to vassals, and the attitude of superiority still colors China\u2019s view of the world. It is a striking place that reflects the power and wealth of the Manchus. As I pointed out to my class, the combination of overwhelming ego and overwhelming wealth and overwhelming power were overwhelming.\u00a0\u00a0(One of my students noted that if that was what was required to be an emperor, I had at least one of those attributes).<\/p>\n<p>The area is dotted with temples built by the royal family, and we visited two <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01911.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-6190\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01911.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"250\" height=\"166\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01892.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6191 alignright\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01892.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" \/><\/a>of them, both built by the reverent Buddhist, Qianlong.\u00a0\u00a0One was to make his northern guests feel at home, and looks rather like the Potala Palace in Lhasa, which would make the Dalai Lama, the head of Tibetan Buddhism feel\u00a0\u00a0comfortable, but as our guide pointed out, there were subtle hints that while the Dalai Lama was a friend, the Emperor was still the boss.\u00a0\u00a0Some of <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01876.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-6203 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/DSC01876.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" \/><\/a>the hints were not so subtle, such as the Chinese style roofs atop the Tibetan style buildings, but then, in Lhasa, there\u2019s a plaque to one of the first treaties signed with Tibet, in which the Chinese stated they were the \u201cbig brother;\u201d that\u2019s been the attitude toward Tibet ever since.<\/p>\n<p>This evening we visited the new new China\u2019s view of the Kangxi period\u2014a show developed by the film studio that developed the Olympic opening show. It was another over-the-top tourist attraction (exceeding, by far, the sedan chairs that tourists can now ride!), with 300 horses and 600 actors, <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-9113 alignright\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/gala-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/gala-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/files\/2012\/05\/gala.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/>and animation you would not believe.\u00a0\u00a0Having been here, though, I can believe it.\u00a0One of the messages in it was that Kangxi recovered Taiwan, which held out against the Qing until the 1680.\u00a0\u00a0On the other hand, Qing fortune in the 1680s also brushed up against the aggressive Russian state, then moving into Asia.\u00a0\u00a0The Treaty of Nerchinsk, between the Qing and the Romanovs was one of the first modern treaties, an opening step that would eventually help make the Ming and Qing part of what the Chinese like to call their \u201cfeudal past.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We were in Chengde, 130 miles or so north of Beijing.\u00a0\u00a0It\u2019s about 15 degrees cooler, 1500 feet higher, and has about 23 million fewer inhabitants.\u00a0\u00a0We\u2019ve gone back to China about 10 years ago, maybe more, but it does boast a McDonalds and a KFC franchise. It is pleasant to visit a smaller city, if only &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/2012\/05\/24\/from-ming-to-qing\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;From Ming to Qing&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":36,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1023","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-mayterm-india"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1023","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/36"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1023"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1023\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9114,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1023\/revisions\/9114"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1023"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1023"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blogs.iwu.edu\/factrack\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1023"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}