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First (and last) Tango in Buenos Aires

Posted by on May 17, 2014

At the end of a long day, we found out it takes two to tango, which was Argentina’s gift to the Jazz Age.

But before then, we had a non-typical FDIB (Faculty Development in International Business) trip—we had some free time in the afternoon.  Our main visit was to the UADE—a private school in Argentina that specializes in business and professional programs.  It was an “open house” day, with hundreds of prospective students, loud music, lots of displays, and two crowded on campus Starbucks.  The 22000 student university charges tuition (the state universities are free), but the tuition is only about $2000 per semester.  It positions itself as a school with close ties to the business community, a fact reflected in the kinds of degrees it offers, which border on the practical.  You can’t major in Sociology here for example.  It sounds like the kind of school I wish our business students attended in South America.

One of the faculty shared his thoughts on Argentina with us, reinforcing what we’ve heard from businesses: the current uncertainty of politics and economics.  Part of the problem is that Christina Kirchner, the current leader, cannot succeed herself.  The family plan (her husband served the maximum consecutive two terms, she has served almost two terms) was to have her husband succeed her, but his death left the party/dynasty with a vacuum for the election next year.  Thus, the professor said, the consensus that governed the country is ending and there is a political/economic/and foreign policy crisis. Christina’s legacy (she’s a Peronista—see Evita for a framework) will be a massive new Opera House, carved out of one of the magnificent old Empire-style buildings (the shell was saved) because the existing Opera House is owned by the opposition party and she won’t set foot in it!  The economic bargain struck 10 years ago to control inflation and create jobs has also been disrupted. Although there’s no obvious problems (it’s not Greece with vacant stores), the hyperinflation of the last few years prompted our guide to say, “If you have pesos, keep them as souvenirs; they won’t be worth anything in the future.” He described the business environment as grim, with low growth, corruption, and statistical data that is at best unreliable.

His most interesting (to me) observations were on foreign policy.  I hadn’t thought of South America as divided East/West, but it is—at least economically.  The economic alliance here is Mercosur, Argentina, Brazil, etc., which is in the title of the program, but we’ve not mentioned it otherwise. The union is much less real than the EU for example.  The Pacific Alliance of Chile, Peru, and Mexico is a serious rival. While he predicted Argentina will have to reforge friendly relations with the United States,  the new balance of power will be more challenging, especially China.  He described China as “potentially the Britain of the 21st century,” pointing to some projects (dams and infrastructure) and purchases (soybean, but only the raw product with no value added) as indicators that China wants resources—period.  I’ll have to think about that.

We had the afternoon free, and it was my first chance on this trip to do what I love to do–wander aimlessly.  Actually, I did aim—at the Scout shop in Argentina.  With 40000 Scouts, in at least two different organizations (one Catholic), Argentina Scouting is celebrating 100 years as a “Scout franchise.” I can predict with 120% certainty that Troop 19 will have the only blue and white neckerchief slides from Argentina at Canyon Camp this summer.

I also stumbled on one of the few museums here that isn’t art-based–the museum of “arms”.  The collection of guns was outstanding (the ticket taker made sure I saw the samuri materials), but what was most interesting to me was the fact that Latin America has had a lot of wars that did not involve the United States.  Now I need to read more about the history of this region!

In the evening, we did what you have to do–go to a Tango show.  Tango is Argentina’s contribution to the Jazz Age, and the show’s retro dress looked like something out of Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris.” Before the show, we had a tango lesson, and I have a certificate (and a partner who was not trampled) to prove I took the course, and know, at a minimum, it takes two to tango.

We’re touring the city this afternoon before leaving for Chile.  Oh, and I made it through the day without any red meat.  The city has great pasta, probably a reflection of its Italian immigrants.

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